Catie

2011-08-01T10:54:00.000-07:00

We have been having a blast, so much so that we have failed to keep up with the blog. 'No news is good news'. Between working, taking trips to the lake and celebrating birthdays we have been having a wonderful time.
We have been working hard. Every morning there is a line at the Kamuzu Central Hospital. We've been treating people of all ages from different parts of Malawi who have varying dental needs. We have seen cancers, accidents (especially bicycle accidents) and many, many, many, many extractions, etc. Davia's right arm is now larger than her left.
This weekend we went to Lake Malawi: Cape Maclear and Monkey Bay. There is a slight problem with gas availability but we were able to make the 4 hour trip. Saturday we took a boat to one of the islands on lake Malawi. Our guides cooked a local fish, Kampango, for us while we played in the emerald green water with some of the over 200 species of colorful fish. At Cape Maclear, we watched a beautiful sunset (pictures to come...). Monkey bay didn't have any power, but Davia learned how to rock climb and from there we saw our first hippo (from afar).
This is our outreach week where we will travel around to small villages to provide dental care that some people will not receive otherwise. We are looking forward to it, especially to break out our dental puppets to teach prevention to the children.
Zambia better be on the lookout for the 4 Malawian exodontists headed their way. Our safari leaves on Monday. We promise to post again soon.
Sincerely,
cc, dn, kr, yu

Breaking news - coming home

2007-10-15T15:37:00.000-07:00

10.15.07 The trip to Guatemala City Zone 9 to obtain legit papers for leaving Guat to begin the journey was unsuccessful. Went to SAT, customs, department of finances, transportation department, and some i can't even remember.
Basically, all the legislative buildings in Guatemala. Final answer, you have to write a letter of proposal which will be hear in 3-4 days and decided upon. If it is denied, then you have to pay 32% of the value of the truck (this value they will arbitrarily determine unless you have the receipt from purchase and this hog was bought in 1995 so that's doubtful).

Moral of the story, if you drive to Guat you HAVE to watch that 30 days and before it expires drive out of the country and then back in and you are safe another 30 days.

They are going to try the US Embassy tomorrow. I'm bailing on the Scott and Roger trip to Panama. More power to them. I'll fly.
More fun with friends. Who wants go on this trip with me? who can get off work/take spring break - Catie Webster (just think we can wear our Team Catie! t-shirts) to travel through Central America?

Regrouping. My hands are pretty tied here right now with work so I'm inquiring to see if I can come home thurs. as in 18th. Will know tomorrow.
Brochures cheaper in US, get Art's help with the website, start the process of getting that truck down here (my driver is quite detained these days plus the trip is ruining her car - see low riding Mazda + huge lake-esque dirt road), get blackberry fixed, buy new camera (stolen), etc.

Hope to see you soon.
Thursday the 18th i come back

Volcano 2 of 33

2007-10-15T13:48:00.000-07:00

Sunday 10.14.07 I woke up late and created another ceramic mold, this time a sea turtle.

Did I tell you about the mold I made? Well, i decided to mold my first tooth out of clay. Chose a pre-molar. I now keep it in my retainer case. Yes, I still wear my original retainer given when I was 13 every night. Can't wait to see this tooth after my first year of dental school. She how inaccurate it is. Also made a smiling toothy pin to wear while i'm in clinic. I'm a dork, i know.

Then we climbed a live volcano. The lava rocks are so light. This volcano was called Pacaya. We were in Scott's truck, thank goodness, because i don't think we would have made it up to the starting point with Roger's POS. There were some sketchy sliding backwards points. Damn men think that with their 4-wheel drive they can go anywhere. Didn't make it to the top because of the clouds and fog we couldn't see the path any longer. So, i'll have to try that one again during the dry season. Anyone game to join me?

Came back and fired the ceramics.

Tortugas, Power, kicked out of El Salvador and a Volcano in the Dark

2007-10-13T22:56:00.000-07:00

10.10.07 Orelia and I went for a walk during the downpour to see if we could find any tortugas coming in to lay eggs. The air was perfect for it. We found one. One of our very own. She laid about 50 eggs. We immediately dug them up and bagged them. They are a delicacy here and we took them to ARCAS (the turtle sanctuary). ARCAS said that 30 turtles had laid eggs in that area during the night.

Blackberry forgot its floaties and has thus drowned in this Guatemalan rainy season. I can BARELY see the screen. I now know exactly how much I am addicted. Having withdrawl!!!!

So, the power was out at Casa Bella for over 36 hours. Afterwards I am told that there are 2 generators. Are you kidding me?
Chickens and a puppy were killed by the live wire that was down that resulted in the power outage. A man was thrown 3 meters trying to cut it. We called the electric company about 7 times. They would flat out lie and say someone was working on it right now. Om, no, I don't see anyone there. Would you please come and get this live wire before something or someone (a child - which they were all playing too close for comfort nearby) else dies.

Driving back from Casa Bella to San Lucas. Very interesting indeed. The car (a low clearance Mazda) kept turning off as a result of the puddles and rain. Much smoke/steam coming out of the hood. We had 3 little 7 year old biys try to push us out of the middle of the road on one of these occasions. It was a true test. Speed up to get through the puddle then turn to miss the next one. Don’t bottom out. It was like a driving video game but you felt the bumps big time.

Get back very late. Scott (Mirim's Curmudgeon and cynic of a husband that never allows his hand to be free of a cigarette - totally disgusting! I can't stand it!) and Roger (artsy type from Chicago) are up getting ready to leave on their adventure. Roger drove his old beat up truck from Chicago to drive through Central and South America with his two buddys. Plan is to just ditch the truck once they reach the Cape Horn area and fly back home. Well, Jimmy (tall lanky chain smoker from Chicago) hasn't been feeling too well. He had his gall bladder removed and still wasn't feeling well after 3 months. So, he flew back to Chicago to have surgery on his gall bladder again and the new cyst on his pancreas excised. Well, needless to say, their trip was delayed waiting to see when Jimmy would be finished with his surgery and recovery. Well, while waiting for Jimmy, (who still hasn’t been cut on and it has been 3 weeks, but they did give him morphine for the pain), they decide to make a trial run through Central America. Take the pacific coast route through El Salvador, Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Rica to Panama then back. They are leaving really early the next morning.

I decide to join. As long as I am back by the 24th!!!! I definitely do NOT want to take this trip with these old farts, but feel like it is a once in a lifetime chance. I would MUCH rather go with some friends that talk about more than the NOTHINGNESS that these fools gab on about. Thank goodness for the iPOD.

10.13.07 We wake early (6ish) and head out for the border. It doesn't take us too long to get there. I'm squished in the back of this fine truck, knees to chest, reading about the histories of the central american countries we are about to hit. We have Guatemala, El Salvador, Nicaragua, Honduras, Costa Rica and Panama. We get to the border. I’m bummed they didn't have a stamp for el passaporte. The whole new Central America-4 agreement allows for travel between the borders of Guatemala, Honduras, El Salvador and Nicaragua with one entry fee and one passport stamp.

Well, as I said, Roger drove his truck down here from Chicago. In order to have this fine automobile in Guatemala, there is a piece of paper that authorizes said vehicle to remain in the country for 30 days. Logically, if you think about the fact that travelers get 90 days in Guat, this paper was thought/assumed by Roger to grant 90 days in Guat also.

Needless to say, the set back of Jimmy getting sick and having to fly back to Chicago left this important piece of paper with a stamp, date and signature to expire. We were off by 5 days. The Guats didn't care/notice but we were kicked out of El Salvadore once we made it over there. Told to go to the SAT office on the Guat side. They proceeded to tell us that the jefe (boss) was off today and that we would have to come back Monday really early and pay a percentage of the value of the truck. Om, we are not here to sell the truck, Roger is not moving to Guatemala, so why would tourists like us have to pay a tax like that?? They were COMPLETE MORONS!

We decided after 2 hours of 'negotiation' (Scott is a horrible negotiator) to head back.

Well, a couple of minutes later, we decide to try another border crossing station. So, off we go. We are delayed by a heard of Zebu Cattle (Bos taurus) in the road, but eventually proceed. These sinuous roads will get to you after a while. After some hours we make it to the Valle Nuevo border. We try again to sweet talk someone to just reproduce the document with another 30 day extension. Make us pay the 100 Quetzales fine and let's get a move on. Easy as that. This border proceeds to give us different instructions on how to obtain this necessary paper. Go to Zone 9 in Guatemala City to the SAT office on Monday and they can help you. Well, we decide to head out. Denied again:(

Funny thing, you pull up to these borders and men come running to your car. "Give me your passport. I will help you. Let me see your papers." Yeah right!!! Do you think i am a fool? "Would you like to exchange your Quetzales for dollars?" No, I bet that exchange rate would be AWESOME! They are like vultures. Very aggressive and quite annoying.

Speaking of vultures, there are TONS of vultures everywhere in Guatemala. Must be because of all the dogs, chickens and humans that get run over by these INSANE drivers. It is funny how every dog on the side of the road seems to try and run across in front of this truck. It’s as if they wait for us to get close enough to actually be able to hit the poor thing and then they try to scurry across. We also had this happen with a mule.

Next we decide to go hike a volcano. This Iztapa volcano has a lake on the top of it. We park in a gravel lot and pay a random Guat 20 Q to ‘watch’ the truck. I mean who knows if this guy is really going to watch it or break into it. He says he lives there, but how are we to know for sure? I decided to bring my passport with me on this one. The hike was AWESOME. Although, again due to the rainy season, the path got squishier and squishier as we went. I didn’t wait for the old farts. I had my Chacos on so the mud was oozing out between my toes. This volcano was not active. It didn’t take long to climb, but a good workout. There were people actually living at the top. How did they get those cement blocks up there? I mean, I passed some cows on the way, but the path was so narrow, twisting and rocky it would have taken fo-eva. Get up top, throw the bather on and jump in. Quite refreshing. Stayed and swam a little too long. The trip back down was in the clouds and then the dark. Well, since the trail was nothing but rocks and mud, I became quite close with it. I have massive bruises to prove it.

Got back really late and slept like a baby.

Class Trip

2007-10-10T11:21:00.000-07:00

After a little soccer, gymnastics (in which I bent my body in ways i haven't in years), singing and a dance party (USA) Guatemala with 5 of my favorite 3-14 yr olds here, I was told by Guisela to have my 6 Quetzales (~85 cents) out and be ready for the bus at 1:50pm in front of Casa Bella. We were going to the lake swimming and where they take tourists to buy handmade bracelets and such. Told to bring my camera for the pretty birds.

Well, we waited. Then walked to Hawaii (the town) and waited some more for the bus. Finally after 35 minutes someone came to the realization that the bus doesn't come this week, but next rather. So, we jump ship to the boats. Conned some families to let us use two boats for 19 kids, a prof. and me. I didn't know the prof was in on the deal at this point. I thought we were all just a group trying to get to the lake.

So we find some boats and i'm thinking do these kids really know where they are going? We divide and start rowing in the opposite direction of the lake. hummm.... where are we going Guisela? Well, the plans had changed unbeknownst to me. We were headed to the mangroves.

Now, the mangroves are quite beautiful, but only in the safety of someone who knows how to navigate these intricate nondescript mazes. I was in a boat of 11 11 year olds who had never been into this mangrove park before. Then the professor jumped onto our boat. I then realized I was Guisela's show and tell on her class trip. The professor was constantly asking where to enter the mangroves for the parque. I was a little aprehensive, not going to lie.

When we entered between two tight trees and there was a wooden sign with paint indicating el lago de palo. Well, we had a good start. The lesson was obviously in Spanish and with every correct answer a student would receive a chocolate. There was a lot of screaming and yelling and boats swaying tempting to overturn. They don't seem to understand that standing alters your center of gravity on a boat and causes unbalance. They also don't understand that there must be an even distribution of weight. Needless to say we were all glad we had worn bathing suits for the other swimming lake. Many were soaked.

We learned about identifying the 4 types of mangroves: red, gray, white and black. The mangroves we were in were over 40 million years old. We saw crabs (congrejos), lots of birds (aves), four-eyed fish (???), termites (comejen) and bird eggs in a nest that floats on the water between mangrove sprouts. I gave some info on how mangroves are the only tree to have the ability to obtain its necessary pure water from salinated. The koolest tree ever for sure. Protection for shrimp, fish, birds, crabs and all sorts of exotic critters I don't even know about while desalinating the water for itself. Won a chocolate.

It's new growths are so maliable also. We had paddles but used mostly our hands to push and pull off of the trees and these sprouts. On our way back we were all alone and to fend for ourselves back out of the hour long mangrove tour that led us to a little pond. The narrow paths and branches took out the professor about 4 times. On our way back we could see the clearing to the river and yet the squirts took us on a right turn. They all had to use the bathroom. Well, the sun was setting now and we had been on this adventure for about 6 hours. Needless to say I started going bonkers with the mosqitos chowing on me. I already had a gazillion sacudos all over my legs and feet. They started going to town. Would have been okay if I knew I was going to be gone till dusk (they only come out to feast then). No deet so one of the little Guats recognized that i was a gringa pura while they were all clammering around like little monkeys (monos) in trees for colelos and started yelling "Gringa pura! Gringa pura! Mosquitos y una gringa pura! hysterical! Mosquitos only like gringos around here. I guess dad was right all those years, I am just a big bag of sugar.

We piled back in and everyone of them had scouted out these green and purple berrys/seeds. Well they were so excited about them that I started asking what they were. Colelos (or something like that) Seeds from trees around here. You peel back the cover and there is a white sweetness covering another inner seed that has cane inside of it. They are so much fun to peel, suck, crack open and eat. I was mortified that all the kids use their teeth for this and had a little lecture on it with them. We then jumped out and accomplished the same using rocks to smash open the seeds. The green are sour and the purple sweet.

I think the nurse at the travel clinic would have had a cardiac if she knew what I did that day. No mosquito killing deet with me (dengue, malaria, onchocerciasis) eating fruit from some trees in mangroves with dirty hands (all sorts of attacking microbes, ameobas, protazoa and parasites that are impossible to spell or pronounce). She was a whack-o.

This morning Oct. 10 I got up early and ran. Sand is so much harder than a treadmill. Whew! It is supposed to storm all day so we had a little art time at 10:30 after all the kids finished their finals for the day. Wow! I need some practice. Maybe I outgrew my artistic abilities. There goes that side gig income thought.

Caul

2007-10-08T12:03:00.000-07:00

Have read: The Red Tent, Unprotected
Just Finished Around the World in Eighty Days - wonderful

Started David Copperfield.
Looked up the word Caul and the excerpt that was used in the Wikipedia dictionary was the quotation from David Copperfield.

I was born with a caul, which was advertised for sale, in the newspapers, at the low price of fifteen guineas. Whether sea-going people were short of money about that time, or were short of faith and preferred cork jackets, I don't know; all I know is, that there was but one solitary bidding, and that was from an attorney connected with the bill-broking business, who offered two pounds in cash, and the balance in sherry, but declined to be guaranteed from drowning on any higher bargain. Consequently the advertisement was withdrawn at a dead loss ... and ten years afterwards, the caul was put up in a raffle down in our part of the country, to fifty members at half-a-crown a head, the winner to spend five shillings. I was present myself, and I remember to have felt quite uncomfortable and confused, at a part of myself being disposed of in that way. The caul was won, I recollect, by an old lady with a hand-basket.... It is a fact which will be long remembered as remarkable down there, that she was never drowned, but died triumphantly in bed, at ninety-two. (Charles Dickens, David Copperfield)

Church

2007-10-08T09:39:00.000-07:00

Woke up early to another crazy storm. Went to the church at 9:00 with my assistant Ursela and all the toothbrushes I had. I had printed out the brush your teeth song
"Los dientes de arriba se cepillan para abajo,
Los dientes de abajo se cepillan para arriba,
Y los muelitas deben cepillar en moviemiento sircular."

as well as some colorful cartoons.
When I pulled up on the four-wheeler there were workers with saws and a plane to construct wooden doors for the church. They proceeded to use these through the entire Sunday school even though the noise prevented the children from hearing their teacher.
We laid out the toothbrushes and the children came. There were about 60 children in all. Before they could have a toothbrush I made them respond on how to use it. In the end, they would in unison answer how to brush teeth. It was adorable. I have plenty left over so I'm hitting up another church next weekend.
The service was pretty neat. One huge amp, some tapes of elevator church music - lots of old school organs, singing children's songs with choreography, about 7 little girls saved this Sunday, tears, breathy preaching and candy for the girls or boys (whichever crew had the most present - the girls win every Sunday). It reminded me of Cloyd Philpott when I was little giving out Snickers bars for those that brought their bible to Sunday School each Sunday. He was such a great teacher. They were suprised when that I joined in on the songs (pretty easy to catch onto). The lesson of the day was "The ABCs of Salvation" Confess your sins, Believe in one God, and follow the 10 commandments" When said in Spanish it is ABC.

Later that afternoon Shoony sat me down for the 2012 Mayan prophecy explaination. 2012 is when the Mayan calendar ends and it is predicted that there will be a "great conscious awakening" The Mayans are from the stars and some of their carvings depict them in spaceshuttles. Kinda sci-fi for me. Shoony believes she can predict the future. A Hopi indian story of the white buffalo and the children of the rainbow revolution. "Intention preceeeds manifestation." I do believe in the power of positive thinking. They take this to the next level and believe that positive thinking alters DNA. There are beliefs of dimensions, "You know that music is the 6th dimension"

I am going to a Mayan ceremony this weekend. It should be interesting. A little nervous. Not really interested in seeing a sacrifice. I'll definitely keep you posted. Never done acid so I feel like my brain might not be "freed" enough to absorb all of this. They are pretty into it. Am curious to see what it's all about. Some of the time I catch myself with my mouth open during these stories and am very strongly urged to ask, "Are you listening to yourself? This makes NO sense WHATSOEVER!" I constantly am stopping and asking, "Wait! I don't understand how you got from point A to B."

I will relay the most fantastic story I hear. Oh, and I am supposed to see all these movies and read all these books. I think i'll stick to the classics i have.

Alfuca

2007-10-06T13:12:00.001-07:00

Made our way to the city to buy a new stereo for the resort. What an increase in quality of life here at Casa Bella now that some tunes are floating in the air. I was told in the city not to hang my hand out of the window. I might get my finger chopped off for my ring. Actually, i'm not supposed to wear any of my usual jewelry I am told. People will walk up and rip the earrings right out of my ears. Owch! considering they are screwed in.

Also heard a story of another guy getting run over, but this time it was in a gated community that Axel lives in. We pick up Axel to come to Casa Bella also. He is the new Rastafarian friend. He is in school for graphic design and is pretty amazing for a 19 yr old. PS - this is Bany's (Monica's 21 yr old boyfriend) best friend.

So I am told that 4,000 Guatemalans are killed every year. Just killed without notice in cases such as the two guys I have heard/seen runover thus far.

On our trip on the little ferry across the river I lean my head out of the car window and ask how many horsepower that little engine has. The car next to me answers and it is Francisco. It is his 27th birthday tomorrow (now today) and he is coming to the coast to celebrate without family or friends. So, i tell him to follow us and stay at Casa Bella. We stop at ARCAS along the way. Saw some Crocadillas, tortugas, and some lazy volunteers mooching off of the ARCAS tab. They come from all over the world and decide to "volunteer" at Arcas. they save from 30 - 40,000 turtle eggs a year. It is beautiful to watch the newly hatched turtles make their way to the ocean in the middle of the night. They are sooo small and are headed for such a big ocean. You wonder how one ever makes it past all the competitors to actually become an adult. I actually got to hold one, though I bet it isn't good for them, but at the time i believed the volunteer.

Arrive at Casa Bella. They didn't know we were coming, which was my plan. Totally unprepared. I whipped them into shape.

We ordered our fresh fish for dinner and all jump into the pool. Next thing you know, Axel comes running from the ocean saying it is perfect and to come check it out. We run down to the ocean, where it seems to turn mad at Axel (his side of the story) for not coming and seeing him (the ocean) for so long. (Also, it just happens to be 5-6:00 when the ocean acquires a great calmness, then suddenly turns crazy violent). Now i'm a decent swimmer, but who knows about this guest staying here (Francisco) and Axel's true abilities. While we are out there struggling for our lives (and bathing suits) I can't help thinking what kind liability we would be facing if someone goes down. It was so bad that the Francisco guy finally makes it out. We get towels and he proceeds to throw up all over the floor of the restaurant. Sea sick? Happy Birthday. Thanks Alfuca.

We stayed out of the ocean for the rest of the night. Stuck to the shallow end of the pool instead.

Spent the day in the pool reading. Mirim, Scott, Roger, "Ronnie", Alexa, and Shuoney (Alexa and Ronnie's mother) came to stay. They are WONDERFUL!

Ronnie's story: He is 3, or 4 Mirim thinks. The cutest little Guatemalan babe. So sweet. He is an orphan. After "his mother" gave "birth" they did the bloodtest to approve genetically that he was her son. Well, let's just say the tests came back negative. So who is this boy? who gave birth to him? when is his birthday? and who will take care of him? Mirim will. They are trying to make him legally hers (she has a judge that is a friend and she has quite a convincing argument). She has to put an ad in the papers with his picture to see if anyone claims him. Like a lost puppy. Like someone will recognize him now from infancy. He is Alexis' 'brother' in every way and they are very frightened that he will be placed in an orphanage. He has never met a stranger and eats like a teenager. Yet the papers say he's 3, but we all really know he is really 4. Little Ronnie comes up to you and hugs you right away. Last week I had just met Ronnie 10 mins. earlier when he hurt his hand on a door and with tears in his eyes ran to me and buried his dark little face in my lap. How could someone ever deny him love?

Little Ronnie has major tooth decay and is constantly complaining of his mouth. We are working on getting him affordable dental care. Every tooth is to be extracted except the top front two. They don't want to put him to sleep because, "it is a cheap hospital" says Souney. We're talking root canals on baby teeth here and almost full extraction. Tough for a 3 or 4 year old.

One of Mirim's projects, and this woman has MANY, is the director/founder of ARCAS. The turtle sanctuary here in this preserve. Well, ARCAS just received a very large donation from Holland and so we went to check out the mangroves that ARCAS bought. PS - when you do this, bring bottles filled with 100% deet because, whether you like it or not, you are NOT Guatemalan and mosquitos looooovvveee some fresh gringo meat in these parts. The sun was setting and the sky was threatening thunderstorms. We go across the street and find some colorful canoes. No seats. So, Estuardo shows up with an engine on his shoulder and we put some sticks across the sides and sit down. For some reason this tiny little engined boat is pulling a second 'boat' behind it empty. Oh, we stop about 50 palm trees down the river Chiquimulilla and pick up the 3 brothers that own the land ARCAS is buying. Now this tiny little engine (I think i saw the number 10 on its side) is pulling 2 'boats'. A grand total of 9 people. We have a milk jug of gas and the sun is setting. I love it. I don't know how they knew what tiny little hole to enter, but they claimed that they knew where we were and were showing us the land being bought the whole time. How does anyone know who's land is who's? Twice we got out, tried not to sink to our kneecaps in mud, nor kill all the crabs scuttling about to really check out the land. Cornfields, mango trees, coconut trees, beautiful trees FILLED with egrets, navy blue birds that have the wingspan of an eagle, yellow and black little birds, parrotts, butterflies, 4-eyed fish (i'm dying to get a picture of these because I swear they are frogs, but they insist it is the infamous 4-eyed fish - 2 eyes above water & 2 eyes below) and many other such wildlife that doesn't translate into english. I can't describe the sounds and beauty, the shadows, reflexions in the water, the way your flipflops stick in the mud, the clean air, and how many times I hit my head on the mangroves or trees looming over the 'path'. The land is enormous and Mirim is going to turn it into reforestation/mangrove project, ecotourism with fishing and bird watching. She has a wonderful purpose and I can't wait to see it come to fruition. It started to pour after about 1 1/2 hours so we headed back.

Received a letter today (thought it impossible considering my address is last house on the right, the main road, hawaii-monterrico, guatemala. At least that's what the electric bill says). the 6th graders at Hawaii Middle need money to go on their graduation trip. Cutest thing ever. They were addressed to Casa Bella and Keity (which i think meant me).

Land is a funny thing here. Mirim bought a piece of land for 80.000$ and it was a scam. She had it all checked out too, so she thought. Mirim is a Guatemalan lawyer and she knows about these things here. So the papers she received were fake. The woman who sold her the fake papers (even after 2 months of knowing they were fake) said, the only thing i have is a peice of property in zone 12 in guatemala city. So, Mirim, hubby Scott and friend Roger head out to one of the sketchiest zones to check out what this chick is trying to give them. Yeah, well, funny thing is that neighbors talk and there seemed to be some sort of family war going on over who actually owned this property and whether they want to sell it or not. One day there will be a for sale sign and the next they see a woman come by and pull it up. Then the brother comes by and puts another one in. Some trade. Here, have this peice of property (worth 15,000$) since I screwed you out of 80 grand. Oh, by the way, that property isn't really mine, but here ya go anyway. Mirim has no way to get her 80,000$ back really. She's counting it as a loss.

Note to self: Do NOT buy land in Guatemala. or any developing country for that matter.

Off to prepare for my oral health education for the kids tomorrow morning. Hope my Spanish works by then.

Coming back for a bit

2007-10-05T08:01:00.001-07:00

I'll be back in October, the 25thish for my interview at UNC School of Dentistry. Let me know if you will be in town so we can hang out.

Back to the City

2007-10-04T18:15:00.000-07:00

Sunday, Ursela comes and grabs me from the pool in her Sunday best and says let's go for a bike ride. I have a bike. Why didn't she say so earlier? I love bikes. So we hop on and head toward "town". This is a very loose term. 1 store, 1 church, 1 school. We get close to town and here comes the swarm. It was adorable. All the little children dressed in their Sunday best running to the bike. I jump off and they yell my name and make sure they are touching some part of my clothes or skin at all times. Next thing you know there is a pinata and kids swing a stick. candy flying everywhere. The smiles and laughter infectious. They are celebrating el dia de los ninos. Oct. 1st is kids day in Guatemala and there is always a huge celebration. My only concern were the candy wrappers thrown on the ground and when the next time these children were going to brush their teeth would be. Otherwise, there was cake served by the minister as well as some sort of rice drink that was really yummy. Next thing I knew, I was being hit up for money by the minister. More on that later. The school teacher showed up and we scheduled the time I will teach the children how to brush. I have about 300 toothbrushes kindly donated by Crest (yet the woman who gave them to me was the Oral-B Colgate rep - go figure).

Big storm came so didn't leave until the next morning. Well, next afternoon actually. Had to catch some rays, little yoga, little fresh fish and gallo.

It was hard to leave Casa Bella for sure. I had to go back to the city, restock on books, make a deposit for Casa Bella, get brochures printed, buy a stereo for the resort (the old one broke due to that sweet salt air), plus I needed some of Hector's cooking from his restaurant. I like to call his restaurant the right place. Everyone seems to meander in asking if they are in the right place. Well, what do you expect him to say?

Had to have some fish and Gallos before heading back. That drive is beautiful with the volcanos all around. Plus you get to drive onto a little one planked ferry that you wonder if the 25 horse power engine is really going to get you across or is the weight of the car going to send you down stream. Too fun!!! No bridges.

We decide to start the next morning with the Guatemala City tasks. Well, Tuesday didn't turn out as expected. It never seems to here. So, Erwin who is the most nervous man I have ever met in my life thinks i'm here to accuse him of bad money managing and threatening his job. So needless to say, Tuesday Erwin was at the Doctor's office and diagnosed with an ulcer. Great! So I was going to proceed without him - only needed him at the bank. So, i'm up and ready to go. Well, Monica and Bany are in one of those 7 hour lover tifts. I happened to walk up to the house and there was screaming and yelling. Wow! I think i'll write some emails. 7 and I'm talking 7 hours later Monica shows up. So much for a ride to the City and working today. Let's plan the same day but tomorrow.

Wed. We actually go to Guat City to the bank where I seem to proceed to upset Erwin even more. His hands were shaking. I'm just asking questions. He then refuses to do what I wish and that was it. We went to lunch together. Gallo, but he had Coke (see Coke email sent 10/4/07). We were there for hours sorting things out and defining positions. Went back to the bank. We need these 4 documents before you can proceed. So, I tell Erwin that he is not to go to Casa Bella Thurs, but to get the documents together and call me when he does and i'll come sign away at the bank. Talked to him today and it took him allllll day to get the info about 1 of the papers which will take daaaayyyyss to get. I forgot i was in Guatemala and it takes a gazillion times longer to do 1 thing and I expected 4 tasks in one day! Wow!!!! I was wrong. Hellloooo Catie, where are you? literally.

Speaking Literary. Went to two bookstores looking for English books. OKAY THE FIRST PERSON COMING DOWN HERE IS TO GO BOOK SHOPPING FOR ME. They had the 1994 version of the Guinness Book of World Records. that's all i have to say.

So today I've decided I want to focus more buisness transactions in Antigua. So much easier to get around (Zone 1 isn't adjacent to Zone 7 which is adjacent to Zone 20) and the people drive a lot better on those cobblestone streets. Not as agressive and there is no honking. If you can drive in Guatemala City you can drive anywhere. There are NO stoplights and it is a death trap to try and cross the street. Trust me, i've tried. We've missed cars and people by hairs on average every 3 minutes. So, Antigua is filled with history, quaint locally owned shops, beautiful churches, a wonderfully romantic park so we head there. Brochures, check. Now, how do we get a car from Lexington, North Carolina to Hawaii, Guatemala without costing an arm and a leg. Ha! Thank goodness for Monica's connections - check. We went shopping - wonderful stores and it was a successful day. As for Erwin, I hope he can still breathe. Monica thinks he's on something. I don't know, but if it wasn't for her I'd be stuck with him driving around the city. He uses "For example" at the begining of every sentence and then says "Why?, I tell you". Patience is tough with him. This is the ultimate test!!!! I have trouble dealing with incompetence.

When you come to Guatemala Antigua is a MUST! It has little ceramic tiles in the sidewalks (the type you would line the backsplash of a sink or stove with in your lovely home) indicating where there are handicap entrances into stores. Indoor gardens at all the restaurants and hotels. You are right at the foot of an active volcano in the mountain's cool crisp air. Plus the drive there is like a scene in a movie. There are less men armed with shotguns indicating much less crime obviously. I love it there. No more smoggy city for me.

Buying a stereo for the resort and then back to Casa Bella tomorrow. Can't wait to get back.

Sunday at 9:00 am I am teaching the children in the "town" of Hawaii some oral healthcare and handing out toothbrushes. We will be at the "church" if you would like to join in the fun. All are welcome.

Monday Hector is coming to teach the restaurant how the heck to function and make some mean grub. Plus we are tweaking the menu.

Off for now.

Neighbors

2007-09-30T07:39:00.000-07:00

Met a neighbor last night. His name is Edgar and he is awesome. Whitest and buffest Guatemalan I have seen. He has a girlfriend in Monroe, NC (that is two ties to NC in 1 day - VERY VERY small world), but he doesn't speak English. He goes back and forth from NC to Guatemala with cars (Toyotas) to sell them or something. But, he has a cute little place 2 doors down and he looooves liqour and smiles a lot. Good teeth. He also has a fishing boat that I plan on hijacking. His family owns the largest jean company in Guatemala. We stayed up Sat. night telling jokes, some of which I wasn't able to quite grasp. (See: my current spanish abilities.) I think it is funny that this long time serious girlfriend of his in Monroe speaks NO Spanish. What an interesting relationship. And yet, I've always been told that communication is one of the main elements and keys to a successful relationship. Must be that communication with the eyes.

Learned the word Duendicito: Short little gnome man that hops around. They wear cone shaped hats. Kind of reminded me of San Marco and alll the trollish midgets. Love the new word. Hayner taught it to me. the little guy is quite resourceful.

Hayner and Erwin

2007-09-27T19:25:00.000-07:00

Saturday, September the 29th, 2007 - I showered today.

First of all, Hayner is a little rascal. The 3 year old torments animals and critters all day long. So, i'm sitting in the hammock reading the book Jill gave me and the little imp comes running up to me with a crab in his hands and sticks it into my face. My face just happens to be right about the height of his short little reach. Needless to say i let out a little 'ah'. Just a little one. IThen he brought me the whole bucket full and he started poking their eyes and speaking jibberish. About 2 hours later, I was in the pool reading and he toodles on up with a live fish in his hands. Only about 10" long. He's putting his finger in its mouth, pulling its tail, slinging it around and splitting open his gills just to get a little peek inside. Curious little Hayner. At lunch this afternoon he kept asking his parents if he could get up and go play with the birds. They were using the verb molestar though. We used to have 10 parrots here but now we are down to 6. I wonder why?

We were playing with a baby iguana the other day (Hayner and I). Then Reynaldo, one of the employees, tells me they will have to wait to eat this Iguana. The Iguanas do grow to be humongous here and the locals will eat them if they are big enough. "Tail tastes like chicken" says Erwin and he does not even know that American say this.
Guatemalans eat land turtles also. So all those turtles I pull off the road to save I should have kept and put them in a stew. hummm.
Sea turtle eggs are a delicacy. The city pholk like them raw with tomato juice. I will NEVER EVER try those and yet, I am usually very open minded about trying foods.

So Erwin shows up on Thurs. Wow!!! He wears waaaaaayyyy too much cologne. I am in the pool and he is sitting on the side. I have to keep going under - DAMN it's potent! He only talks in Eminem, fiddy cent and Air Supply lingo. He has watched too many movies and studied way too many 80s tunes. Erwin claims his English is bad. It is not!

He is speaking to me about "take me to the candy shop, I let you lick the lollipop" at the dinner table!!! and how he loves this song. "you know?" he asks "No." I say. "Yes you do, it goes like this,'take...'" again and again and again with all types of songs that I swear I do not know, and for good reason. They are horrible! He says that he likes them for their beat and rhythm and I'm like, yeah right!

Erwin likes to talk like he is from the hood (mind you the hood on tv and in emenim songs) and he wonders why he can't understand Johnny (southern, always dip in mouth and Gallo in hand). Needs to listen to more country music. Hysterical, but treats me like his English teacher. Arrrgh! I want to learn Spanish better, not be his English teacher. I was doing so much better without him here at Casa Bella. He goes back to the city tomorrow.

Went to the store in Hawaii yesterday, big outting! Love that my new wheels are a four-wheeler. From toddler toter to four-wheeler. The veggies and fruits here are amazing, so fresh. Organic. Went to the "bookstore". Om, no. I wouldn't call it a bookstore. They have like 30 books.

Please send recommendations of books you love for me to read. I'm flying through the ones I have. Only two recs. thus far. Going into the City on Monday to restock as well as do some advertising work.

I love it here and can't wait to share this with some of you so please come visit, if not just for a weekend. It is a 3 hour flight from Charlotte direct to Guatemala City. Flight 1806 US Air leaves at 11:30 every other day. I will pick you up from the airport and bring you to this paradise Casa Bella. We can climb volcanos, fish, bask in the sun, help little sea turtles make their way to the ocean safely at night, canoe through the mangroves, hit Guatemala City, old Antigua, go to the Mayan ruins, lake Atitlan, the waterfall that one half is hot water and the other cold, the natural spring baths or just drink up some Gallo by the pool or ocean.

Met consult from the US Embassy today. Came by the resort. I feel much safer now. He was born in Fayetteville. Small world.

Went running on the beach at 12 because I slept in, it is Saturday. The Worst idea ever. I will be sure not to sleep in ever again. Ha!

When in doubt: Make up a word in spanish and look at them like, "you don't know that word". NOTE: Just add 'O'
For example: ankle-o, lantern-o, shark-o, mangrove-o and couch-o.

My address here at Casa Bella:
The last house on the right at the end of the
main road, Hawaii-Monterrico
That is the address on the electric bill.
Needless to say, I can get any mail, it would just be a century from now.

"Big hitter... the Zumma" had to throw that one in here Drozd, classic.

Asked to be a bridesmaid in Jake and Camille's wedding! Yay! Can't wait!

Oh and check out this craziness, Cal (bro) and Elizabeth (beautiful sis in law) are running a marathon in TAHOE! They are nuts! Fanatics! And poor Elizabeth has a small fracture in her foot but still going to run in it. Please be careful! and Good luck! They called for snow last night there. I can't imagine.

A day alone

2007-09-25T18:14:00.000-07:00

Tuesday, September 25, 2007
Today was Montezuma's day. I give it/submit to him. Dear God!

Later in the day feeling much better. Thanks pharmacist Connie.

I really enjoy being alone and I am excited for the tumultuous challenge of utter submersion into a place where NO ONE and I mean NO ONE speaks Engllish. Finally, I was away from all the young people who want to practice their English on me. My best teachers are my children (not mine, but you know, they are really cute and I might just bring them home with me). 11 year old Guisela and 3 year old Hayner are working with me when they aren't in school. The guys (insert any male Guatemalan name here because i have no clue what they are yet - there are so many and so many children too) just stare. They stare into sheer nothingness as though they don't understand. And yet, when I ask them, "Comprendes" they say, "Oh, Si Si Catie!". What a load of bull. But it does make me feel more confident in my Spanish so I keep trying to talk.

The pool is my savior, but please, bring sunscreen and USE IT when you come. Not from experience, but from the horror stories of 1 day out in the sun producing "4th degree burns" (didn't know it went all the way to 4) But still, i'm sure it was really bad. Also noted, she was Guatemalan so her skin should have been used to it too. Us white people must protect our delicate skin. Although, I have heard that as a dentist I can give Botox shots.

Worked on the website - still not up and running. I need some help de Kassens. Kate, are you busy?

Going to find more Tortugas. They come around 8 or 9 pm every night.

PS - the Guatemalan national bird is definitely el mosquito!!! Watch out for dusk, but other than that they are fine. As long as you stay out of the mangroves which I would never recommend because it is so beautiful back in there and such an amazing experience. You do have to be careful not to get stuck so bring some shoes you don't care about to help push through the roots and muck.

Getting up at 6am with 2 guys (again, insert Guatemalan man's name here) to go fishing and catch my dinner for tomorrow night.

Oh here comes another tsunami. Maybe we call it tropical storms here, but we prepared for it as though it was a tsunami.

Guat continued

2007-09-25T10:18:00.000-07:00

Friday Septiembre 21

On the way back into town Andres and I picked up a vagabond named both Wasil and Selvin - don't ask. Andres met him last time he came to San Pedro. Ate beautiful breakfast on the edge of the lake. Met some women with babe selling their handmade woven belts and hair accessories. They taught me how to tie my hair up like they do across the top of your head (insert picture here, if I had my camera).

We went to one of the gardens and hung out when a woman with 1 tooth comes to see if we want to buy any mushrooms. Andres buys a TON for the party. Some of the shrooms fell on the table and about an hour later an old, and i mean old man came hobbling over asking for money. Of course I gave him some and Andres and Wasil insensitively gave the mushrooms to the man to eat. They didn't tell him the effects of the mushrooms. Poor guy is walking around San Pedro tripping.

We made the last boat from San Pedro to Pana but missed all the buses to Antigua. I HAD to be there for Hector's big opening. So, we found a random guy on the street to drive us to Antigua. About 2 1/2 hour long ride. We jump in the van and Andres and Wasil sleep. I can't because there is a damn tsunami going on out there and we are driving through mudslides and clouds. I really don't know how we got through!! Honestly. I feel lucky to be alive. Case in point: We slowed down through a little town because of police lights. I look closer and there is a dead man in the road half way covered in a plastic advertising tarp that says Gallo (el mejor cerveza en el mundo). He was hit by a car and they hadn't even moved his body aside yet, they were all just staring at the dead man. Poor guy.

Alive, so I profusely praised the driver in as many ways that I could in my choppy Spanish.

Hector's was great! Rich food, people and stories. ASIDE: Although, I am NOT fond of the straggler Wasil or whatever his name is. I was annoyed with Andres for picking him up. The meal was delicious the restaurant quaint and homey. Love that you can watch Hector preparing your food. Such charm.

Finally made it back to homebase (Mirim's house in San Lucas)

Saturday Sept 22
The Party
I have NEVER been to a party like this before. Ever. They really know how to do it here. Throwing fire, blacklights, tons of food, some special tea, mats with pillows for chatting, a dj and a band. I did feel like a wimp only pulling 14 hours of drinking that day. Oh, well it was "Jennifer's" birthday.

Sunday the 23rd
movies witth subtitles (studying Spanish) hungover searching for damn camera

Monday, Septiembre 24th 2007
Woke up early ready to hit the road. Only 2.5 hours to the sound of the waves and the sun. It is rainy season here so San Lucas was chilly and dreary. Not my style.

Lights left on in Monica's car so we had to push it up a hill to jump start it as it rolled down. Got it!

on my travels to Casa Bella Monica and Bany filled my head with beautiful Mayan history and
the Mayan legends passed from father to son for many years. Diego Landa, the bastard, burnt all the written stories so only a minority of those stories remain.

Belly button of the world is Atitlan (the lake surrounded by mountains). We are on the equator
they think the tree of life is here - yet to be found but is depicted as emerging from both mouth and belly
the lungs are the rainforests which are the 2nd largest in the Americas
Just some of the legends.

Finally got to Casa Bella. My amazing home

The Gallo was flowing in celebration and the three of us (Monica, Bany and I) hit the 4-wheeler and headed to "Johnny's Place" in Monterrico for some ceviche and entertainment. I think I had more fun driving the 4-wheeler then at "Johnny's Place". Laughed until it hurt, and I couldn't see from the squinting of eyes while laughing. This was an issue since it was dark and the headlights aren't so strong and there are ruts in the "road" and flooded spots. Lots of mud splattering all over us, I felt like a kid again. Briuses from shifting gears in flip flops. Won't do that again.

Later that night ~9ish, Alex scared me, as he would anyone, running up yelling with a gun on his shoulder. "La tortuga", ohhhh! It was a mother sea turtle coming to check on her eggs. She was grayish brown and 3 1/2 feet from head to tail. The sound (flip flap) of her flippers as she submerged herself back into the pacific was equivalent to my love of horse hooves on cobblestone streets. First time hearing this. You have to come and witness. Beautiful.

Guatemalan Adventures Part I

2007-09-24T08:19:00.000-07:00

Somehow I have created a blog in spanish, oops.

First, I land and am supposed to meet my driver Monica, a fire spinner. Waiting sucks, especially when you are excited. We go to Mirium's adoption center. She is a beautiful and energetic 4'11" (and that's pushing it) Guatemalan. The adoption process is ending in 3 months so if you want a babe you need to get on it. The government is taking over the adoption process and they have no clue what it entails. It will be sooo expensive and take at least twice as long. So hurry up cause they are ADORABLE.

Been staying at Mirium's house in San Lucas, thank goodness it isn't in Guatemala City. The smog is intense and the bustling traffic abhorrent.

First we go to Antigua (about 10 minutes from San Lucas) to meet Hector and check out his new restaurant. No name yet. Ha! His big opening night was Friday so we had to make it back by then. This is where it all starts

Andres is in town from Chicago. He is a jewelry maker - pretty rad stuff. Check it out www.dreamersjewelry.com A Columbian and let me tell you he dances like a Columbian. Hysterical. He talks me into going to lake Atitlan, the bellybutton of the earth . So we catch a bus, I was told to never ride the bus, but I had my very own Colombian with me and felt okay with it. Everyone on the bus stared at me.

They LOVE "blondes" which I am not, yet I keep getting dubbed as such. I have to tell them, "No, I'm not interested. Get away from me. I'm not blonde, I'm a brunette and you only think i'm beautiful because I'm different than Guatemalan women."

My journey with Andres to the lake continued. So we're on the bus and this medicine man gets on and starts teaching us all how to live a healthy life. No cervezas (which Andres and I had in hand), mas agua, etc. He had diagrams on the urinary and digestive tracks and was really a dynamic speaker. It was awesome to see an educator just pop on a bus and give free health lessons... Then, he started selling packets of herbs that you mix in water and drink everyday to look just as healthy as he was. He was probably 70 and no wrinkles so I fell for it. Now, i feel like that girl that fell for Jessica Simpson's Proactive infomercial. Damn. I'll try it for the first time tomorrow (Wed. the 26th).

So, with our new vitality packets we come to a stop. This is where we all get off. N, not the actual stop mind you, but a Guatemalan traffic jam (re: mudslide). And a Jam it was. It was as though I was in the lot of a Phish or Widespread show. People were playing their guitars on the side of the road and selling yummy food for very cheap. Everyone just 'Having a Good Time'.

We move on. Change buses. Change buses again thanks to the sweet doctor that told us where to go. Took a very wet boat ride and finally were there.

San Pedro! Little dilapidated gates open to beautiful gardens and some of these gardens have actual trolls in them. Trollish midgets. No teeth, and you know how I feel about that. A whole town in Atitlan (San Marco) is full of midgets. Very strange and scary. Chills.

Back to San Pedro. The hotels are jungles and tibetan dens where everyone sits on pillows and "chats" (see green answer). We found one that had a spectacular view righ on the lake named Chi-Ya. It only cost $20 and there were 3 beds, a huge deck and it was right there on the water. Beautiful! (See picture hopefully). Went to a new bar. Bongo playing - i suck- dancing/laughing at Andres' dancing. What a hoot! A guy was painting a mural on the wall. Pretty awesome. (See another pic) Good times.